Nestled in Western Cambodia, this small colonial town is often overlooked by visitors who will make a beeline for Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat, missing out on everything in between. Known mainly for its colonial architecture, surrounding countryside, and old temple ruins, it is a place that’s becoming increasingly popular.
It is most well known for the famous old bamboo railway that runs outside the town. However, it does have a reputation as a bit of a “touristy” sight. We didn’t visit when we were there, so can’t comment either way. One thing that is certain is that Battambang is not on the Cambodian, or Southeast Asian, tourist trail. In a region of well-beaten paths, it’s nice to get off it.
Getting there and away:
The easiest way to get to Battambang is by bus. Regular bus services leave in the mornings from Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. From Phnom Penh through journey can take up to 6 hours, whereas it’s 3-4 hours from Siem Reap.
Where to stay:
Battambang is a small town, making it far more walkable than Phnom Penh. There are a few guesthouses on the outskirts of the town, but the majority are in the town centre. Being slightly outside the centre is probably best as you will avoid the hubbub and noise that accompanies the bars in the centre.
We stayed at an Airbnb on the outskirts of the town, on a quiet, leafy street about a 20-minute walk from the city centre.
Getting around:
A scooter is the only way to get around here. Most guesthouses will rent one for anywhere between $6-10 USD per day. Some renters will check your driving licence and others won’t. Don’t forget to take plenty of pictures of the bike to document any dents and scratches and save yourself a few problems down the line.
The fact that most guesthouses will rent out scooters means that you don’t need to worry about your accommodation’s location too much.
Things to do in Battambang
Wat Ek Phnom
About 30 – 45 minutes from Battambang are the ruins of Wat Ek Phnom. The ruined temples of Angkor Wat are still Cambodia’s most popular and well-known tourist attraction; with that comes crowds, and lots of them. I first visited Cambodia back in 2008, and there were barely a handful of tourists. However, after returning a few years later, the number of visitors was certainly more than a handful. Safe to say the temples don’t feel as “abandoned” or “ruined” as maybe they did back when I first visited.
Wat Ek Phnom was deserted when we visited. In fact, we had the entire site to ourselves. It certainly falls more into the ruined than abandoned category, but this ruinous nature, combined with very few visitors, makes it a particularly unique experience.
Wat Banan
Wat Banan is definitely in better condition than Wat Ek Phnom. Perched on top of a hill, the surrounding trees block the view of the pancake-flat surrounding land. It is definitely busier than Wat Ek Phnom, but that is due to its close proximity to the bamboo train and Battambang itself.
Incidentally, there are some decent noodle places on the path up, complete with hammocks, making it a good midday spot.
Bat Cave
Probably one of the most unique sights in Battambang. This complex of caves to the east of Battambang is home to cave temples, a cave where victims of the Khmer Rouge were murdered, and a huge colony of bats that leave their homes every night to hunt for insects.
The sheer number of bats is staggering; the swarm of bats seems almost never-ending. It usually begins just before sunset.
Before or after watching bats swarm out, head up to explore the main mountain. There are numerous small temples and caves to explore, as well as some great views of the surrounding pancake flat land. Trust me, it’s much prettier than I just described.
